There are three markers to orient your day around – sunrise, sunset, and your appetite – and according to current scientific literature, we can only control one of those. As a result, when visiting a new place, my itinerary (if it can even be called that) finds its landmarks in restaurants, wine bars, and cozy neighborhood spots, allowing everything else to fall naturally into place around them. I take the train up to Paris every six weeks or so for wine classes and events, so the question of where to eat or enjoy that casual weeknight glass or two of wine is ever-present for me.
Here’s my short, trusted list of spots I tend to revsit whenever I’m in the city. Most of them are clustered in the 18th arrondissement – my wine school is nearby, and as an Idahoan at heart, Montmartre’s hilly streets make Paris feel less claustrophobic, giving it an almost village-like charm.
This place captures the essence of the 18th. Though it sits on a popular street, stepping inside feels instantly cozy and welcoming. The owner is incredibly friendly, and the menu has reliably delicious and classic French plates. After a long day of class, work, or simply exploring the city, it’s an ideal spot to slip into and unwind. Special shout out to their gratinée á l’oignon and confit de canard.
This spot consistently hits the mark for me. Like Au Virage Lepic, it’s not overly fancy, but sophisticated enough to make each visit feel special. It’s classic French bistro cooking, though slightly evelvated in thoughtful and inventive ways. I recently had a green pea risotto here that single-handedly reversed my childhood trauma around microwaved peas.
Les Darons has a carefully curated wine selection, highlighting smaller producers and natural wines. I haven’t ordered anything from their food menu yet, but everything I’ve seen looks delicious. Their wine list features heavy hitters like Domaine Belluard, Domaine de l’Ecu, Domaine de Bellivière, Arianna Occhipinti, Nicholas Jacob, Domaine Viret, etc.
Nestled in the vibrant and slightly chaotic Marché des Enfants Rouges, this place is a true sensory delight. They offer an exceptional wine selection with a clear lean towards natural wines and obscure grape varieties, complemented by classic French dishes and high quality meat. Weekends can be crowded, especially during peak tourist season, but weekdays are ideal for enjoying a bottle with friends while soaking in the lively (and loud) market atmosphere.
Last but certainly not least – and distinctly different from the previous four – is Petite Ile Boulangerie. Breaking away from tradition, Petite Ile is a Taiwanese-French fusion spot offering unconventional and exceptionally good pastries and breads. Think black sesame croissants, melon bread, matcha brioche – an effortless blend of East Asian flavors and classic French pastry techniques. I usually stop here on my way to Gare de Lyon to stock up on my favorites before heading home.
What’s on my ‘need to visit’ list…
Located in Place du Tertre, this heavily touriested square initially seemed like the kind of place that wouldn’t offer much beyond standard fare catered to tourists. Surprisingly, Chez Eugène is reportedly cooking up a variety of French classics accompanied by an outstanding and thoughtfully created wine selection – again, foucsing on small producers and niche, natural wines. It’s definitely not the wine list you’d expect in such a touristy, high-traffic area, so it’s on my list to check out!
Another small local bistro in the 18th. It’s always full when I pass by, and I’d be lying if I said their blue neon sign and warm pink glow of the terrace lights didn’t automatically draw me in. Definitely a neighborhood spot worth exploring the next time I’m in the area.
A trendy yet casual döner kebab & mezze restaurant with an even trendier wine selection. Word is, some of the best kebabs in Paris can be found here.
A Michelin-starred restaurant offering tasting menus and wine pairings. Diverging from the cozy, wallet-friendly spots I usually frequent, Substance is firmly on my radar for a special night out – perhaps to celebrate passing my D3 exam, or as a much-needed consolation if I don’t!