Why You Should Be Drinking More Mountain Wines

Alpine wine regions are cool – literally.

As summer travel heats up, so does the urge to get out of the heat. More travelers are skipping the crowded beaches of the Côte d’Azur and heading north, where they find alpine towns with a slower pace, clean air, and cold pools tucked at the foot of staggering peaks. A recent article in The Times put it plainly: “The Alps is my all-time favourite summer holiday” https://www.thetimes.com/travel/destinations/europe-travel/the-alps-is-my-all-time-favourite-summer-holiday-heres-where-to-stay-rv2gt9wbz. Regions like Alto Adige, Savoie, and the Swiss Valais are becoming the go-to for people who want both fresh air and good wine – and not necessarily in that order.

Mountain wines make perfect sense in this kind of setting. Grown at high elevations with sharp swings between daytime sun and chilly nights, these wines tend to be crisp, bright, and full of detail. Whites like Jacquère, Altesse, Erbaluce, and Petite Arvine show off clarity and texture – often with a cool mineral core or a subtle herbal lift. The reds, like Schiava, Mondeuse, and even the occasional Gamay or Cornalin, are light and structured with more personality than power. These are wines made for movement – for lunch after a hike, or dinner with friends when you want something that tastes like where you are. And that’s kind of the point of drinking wine, right?

They also work year-round. I reach for them just as often in fall and winter as I do in July. There are alpine whites with more texture and weight that hold up beautifully to roasted root vegetables or cheese-heavy meals (looking at you, fondue and rösti), and earthy, savory reds that feel tailor-made for cold-weather dishes. For example, in the cold, slightly depressive depths of this past January, I picked up a bottle of Altesse from Domaine Dupraz at a small neighborhood wine shop. It was affordable and everything I needed it to be – textural and a bit rustic. Delicious.

There’s also something refreshingly unfussy about mountain wines. They’re not made to be extravagant. Instead, they offer clarity and purity. A kind of honest, place-first approach that defines the Alps. You see that in producers like Domaine Belluard, who brought global attention to Savoie’s Gringet grape, or Domaine des Ardoisières, whose steep, slate vineyards produce vivid wines that taste like they were wrung out of the rock itself. Out of the Valais region in Switzerland, Valentina Andrei is a female winemaker worth seeking out, working carefully with native grapes and organic practices. These are people farming difficult terrain with intention, producing wines that perfectly blend site and style. There’s a confidence to keep things simple, and the trust that what’s grown on steep, stony slopes has something worth saying.

But to be honest, sometimes the best bottle isn’t one with a name at all. It’s the more affordable local white poured at the auberge or refugio you’ve hiked to – served in a carafe, with zero pretension. It probably came from just down the valley. It’s cold, a little herbal, a little salty. And in that moment – sweaty, surrounded by alpine flowers and mountain peaks – it might as well be Grand Cru. The context makes the wine. That’s part of the beauty of drinking up high.

Maybe that’s why these wines feel so right for right now. The world is messy and complicated, and our current timeline is pretty difficult to make sense of at times. Alpine wines, for the most part, feel excluded from that. There’s a humility to them, and to the people who make them. Maybe it’s the precarity of the Alps themselves – the melting glaciers, the unstable snowpack, the real sense that this landscape is changing fast. These wines carry that rawness. They’re precise but not sterile. Honest but not rough-edged. That kind of balance, between precision and depth of character, is what makes them linger.

As the heat bears down on us this summer and our quiet or not-so-quiet desperation for something cold and refreshing is in full swing, try grabbing something with a little altitude. And trust me, keep drinking it even when the snow starts to fall.

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